01 - Place apples, sugars, and apple cider or water into a large heavy-bottomed pot and stir to blend evenly.
02 - Heat over medium, stirring occasionally, until apples break down and soften, approximately 20 to 30 minutes.
03 - Remove pot from heat and puree the mixture using an immersion blender or regular blender in batches until very smooth.
04 - Return puree to pot, then stir in cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, salt, and fresh lemon juice.
05 - Simmer uncovered on low heat, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until thick and deep brown, about 1 hour 30 minutes. The butter should mound on a spoon without running off.
06 - Taste and adjust sweetness or spices as desired. Allow to cool slightly before transferring to sterilized jars.
07 - Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks or process in a water bath for extended shelf life after cooling.